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Ait
bougemez valley & Glaoua country 15 days/ 12 days walk
ITINERARY
Day 1:
Arrive in Marrakech. Transfer to the Hotel.
Day 2:Leave
the hotel after an early breakfast and drive into the Atlas Mountains, stopping
en route at Azilal for lunch (not included). Mid-afternoon, you arrive at the
charming village of Idoukaln near Agouti. Here you meet your Berber host and
spend the night at his family home, a Moroccan Gite d'etape with its own lounges
and a shady court yard where one can have a drink under the apricot trees. At
this village you値l find yourself in the midst of high, fortress-like houses
built into the rocky hillsides. The flat lands of the valley are cultivated with
corn, wheat, barley, potatoes, tomatoes and various fruit and nut trees. Sheep,
goats, cows, donkeys, horses and mules graze everywhere.
Day 3: The
next ten days will be spent walking through the spectacular gorges and peaks of
the Massif du Mgoun, one of the most scenic ranges in the High Atlas Mountains,
using the trails that the Berbers have used themselves for centuries. Mules are
loaded with your gear and will be driven by friendly Berbers. From Idoukaln, you
take the high dirt road over the mountains, as the gorges here are impassable.
You then follow the Gougoult Valley to Abachkou c.18000m, where you will find
the last telephone until you return. Here you値l camp for the night.
Day 4:You
continue up the valley, passing the village of Tissint to a col, the
Tizi-n'Tighist (2,399m). Here, in the heat of the day, is a very good spot for
having lunch. Soon after continuing, you値l stumble across some excellent
prehistoric rock-carvings within an enclosure; thought to date from 8000 years
ago. They have literally been etched into the rock using heat... there are also
some fake ones as well. Can you spot the difference? The pictures show hunting
scenes, men on horseback with spears and some tribal symbols from that time,
after the ice age when there were many more wild animals around. You値l
descend to enter a broad, cultivated valley and climb steeply up to your
campsite high on a terrace, opposite the village of Tarbat-n'Tirsal.
Day 5:Head
beneath the imposing bulk of Jbel Rhat to a col (2,850m) then contour above
crags with amazing views of rock strata and over four false summits before
dropping steeply down to Imazayn. You値l camp on a small terrace above and
opposite the villages. 2250m
Day 6:Today
is a longish day as you ascend initially to a col (2,550m) before following a
rocky spur down to a small summer hamlet. From here, you skirt a deep gorge to
Imi-n'Tizgui, your lunch spot. Continuing down the valley to the large village
of Tissili, you enter the Tissili Gorge, which leads eventually into the main
Tessaout river valley from whence you turn easterly and camp near to the small
village of Ayt Ali-n-Ittou.
Day 7:Another
long day's walk (although mainly flat) along the main Tessaout valley through
willows and walnut groves through the beautiful village of Ichbakene, where
houses are perched high above the river on a rocky promontory. Lunch around
here; you may want to take a paddle in the river, although you will probably end
up having a water fight with the local kids. You then follow a dusty trail along
the valley side as it meanders. The valley is flanked by mountainsides, which in
turn become desert-like. Soon, you head off through irrigated pastures to your
campsite on a rocky spur, surrounded by great mountain views at Azib-n-Ihhis.
Day 8:Enjoy
a three-hour hike passing through the large villages of Amezri and Tasgaiwalt.
You arrive at the head of the Tessaout valley by midday, where you値l make
camp at around 2370m and rest over lunch. There are several river crossings to
be made throughout the morning and some of the rocks can be a little slippery so
take care. The afternoon is free to explore the surrounding area or bathe in the
fresh mountain stream (and we mean fresh!). There may be the opportunity in the
afternoon to follow the path further up the valley and explore the upper reaches
of the Tessaout gorge. There is a spectacular waterfall and an unbearably cold
plunge pool, but the backdrop of red mountains is spectacular.
Day 9:Early
morning ascent steeply from the river up to the Rougoult Pass (Tizi). There are
spectacular views back to where you have been walking for the last couple of
days. The climb is sustained, but it is very well graded. Eventually, you get to
the high broad plateau beneath the Mgoun Massif proper, stopping en route for
lunch amongst the volcanic jumble of rocks. The Afternoon is spent traversing
the high valley, where nomadic tribesmen camp with their flocks. Late afternoon
you drop down slightly to a relic glacial plain on the Tarkeddit plateau 2900m
to arrive at your spectacular campsite surrounded by jagged peaks.
Day 10:Today
is a long day, especially for those who wish to climb Mgoun. An Alpine Start (or
rather a slightly later Moroccan start) is made to ascend to the col of
Tizi-n'Oumsoud, a challenging ascent on scree leads to the main
ridge. This
provides a spectacular, but technically easy approach to the main summit (3960 m
we beg to differ with the map height of 4068m!). You値l return part of the way
along this ridge before descending directly to your camp; lunch is normally had
near the summit giving a good example of Haute cuisine. Dress warmly because of
the cold wind that can mask the affects of the very strong sunlight.
Day 11:This
morning, after a steep ascent to another col, the Tizi -n-Tarkeddit, you can see
in front of you far below the rich green pastures of the valley of Ait Bougemez
and the village of Agouti, from whence you came nearly ten days ago. From the
pass, you make a gentle descent through a little valley and camp near a
tributary of the river Arous at 2194m approx. you may want to explore a little
way into the Arous gorge, where from one point one can look up between the
cliffs of the gorge entrance and see the summit of Mgoun towering above.
Day 12:An
easy day following the meandering Arous river valley through many small Berber
settlements, which completes the circuit and brings you back to the Ait Bougemez
valley by lunchtime. Afternoon can be spent wandering around the villages nearby; there are some dinosaur footprints in a nearby village, which have been
left behind in metamorphosed mud. You値l spend the night at Idoukaln and bid
farewell to our Berber friends; this will probably be the last time that you see
the muleteers.
Day 13:Return
drive to Marrakech via Azilal where lunch is included, and then on to the Hotel
Foucauld, to arrive late afternoon. The busy main square of Marrakech, the
Djemaa-El-Fna is well worth a visit especially at dusk, with the view to the
Koutoubia from the terraces of the surrounding bars and restaurants. The last
group evening meal is normally included tonight at the Hotel Foucauld (If not it
will be arranged for tomorrow night). There is a set menu, but you can pay an
extra supplement (30D approximately) and eat anything from the buffet, going
back as many times as you like! During the hot summer months the meal is often
had on the roof of the hotel (Drinks are not included. The waiters can normally
get alcohol (off the premises) if you give them money to do so. The hotel does
have a license to serve it, but normally does not stock very much. The Moroccan
beer tastes very much like alcohol free - chemical lager, which it probably is
after all! Moroccan wine is variable, but nothing normally to write home about.
It is probably best to stick to soft drinks and "Berber Whiskey," -
Mint Tea!
Day 14:Morning
tour of the souks (markets) of Marrakech for those last minute presents.
Particularly good are the products that are made of wood and leather, but you
will find plenty of interesting items including dates and walnuts. The leader
will be able to help you find items that you may want, but they値l leave the
haggling up to you... it is all too stressful! In the afternoon, it is
recommended that you go to the Saadian tombs and maybe, if you still have
clothes to look smart (ish) in, attempt to get into the famous Mamoumia Hotel
for a drink...at a price! This was the hotel that Sir Winston Churchill often
stayed in, and is still, by World standards, excellent. Lunch and dinner today
is at your expense. You may like to eat in the Djemaa El Fna, the central square
in the city, which at night takes on vibrancy and personality that is unique in
the world, (just watch your pockets though). Quite a few Westerners now eat
actually in the square, where there are many barbecues lighting up (and smoking
up) the place. Here you can eat for around 20 dirhams (including a soft drink)
fish and chips, kebabs, and chicken. The advantage of the place is that you can
actually see how your food is being cooked and get them to redo it if necessary.
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Day 15:Transfer
to the airport (15 minutes) and fly Marrakech to home. (Note that most the duty
free shops sell items in French Francs only, although if you do have a few
Dirhams left the airport cafes will serve you drinks for them).
Notes
Trip Rating
Easy - Gentle terrain, four to six hours a day walking without steep climbs or
vertiginous mountains. Longest day is four to six hours with easy ascents and
descents of up to 1000ft. No scrambling or dizzy heights.
Guided Trekking
These fully guided walks take you to the high mountains. They are for
those who want to enjoy the mountain ambiance in the company of like-minded
travelers; for those who are committed walkers who relish the prospect of
exploring off the beaten track, surmounting every pass and trekking unaided from
horizon to horizon.
These walks are by no means the preserve of the superfit! There are trails to
suit all levels of experience, many well within the capabilities of any normally
fit and healthy individual.
Breakaway Adventures doesn't believe in roughing it for the sake of it. The
trails are much more fun without a heavy pack to carry, so they provide vehicles, pack animals or porters to move the baggage wherever the terrain
permits. If you want to get deep into the mountains you have to camp, but this
can be done with style, with mess tents, tables, stools and as many creature
comforts as can be mustered. Not all tours rely on camping, often if there is a
village inn or pension it will be used, and many walkers enjoy memorable
evenings over a well-stocked table in superb mountain villages.
Groups range from six to fifteen in numbers and have an international flavor.
While many come from North America, you will also find Brits, Australians and
Europeans who enjoy their mountain travel the Breakaway Adventures way!
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